Cosmetology;
Edward J. Grey, MPEA, MEFSA,
Master of Restorative Art, International College of Mortuary Science, Belgium. Diploma, Professional Cosmetology, Meredith, College, London, Diploma, Professional Hair Styling, Skolars, Limerick.
Cosmetics;
Cosmetics are always referred to the famous International Deceased everyone has received, who was plastered in so much cosmetics, a power hose was required to remove them, and then they really looked so much better. I have been asked to remove cosmetics in My time, and this is always for the better, because when We try anything the danger is over application, and none more so then cosmetics especially when We try them first. But with a little practice and patience, so much good work looks so much better with a little touch of cosmetics, and anything that improves My results, I’m interested in, and will give a little time to study and find the best results for My situation.
Types of Cosmetics;
The two most used cosmetics are those supplied by Mortuary Suppliers and those available Commercially through local Shops. Mortuary Suppliers have a very vast range, and the ones I used are excellent, the advantage I got from the Mortuary Cosmetics is they usually supplied a detailed brochure on applications and uses for there cosmetics which were very detailed and extremely helpful. Mortuary Suppliers will certainly give the Cosmetic Artist enough material to carry out the most elaborate cosmetic application necessary, but it is no load to watch what’s available in the Shop’s, and anything One learns, is to there advantage, and ultimately there Funeral Service.
Mortuary Suppliers;
Mortuary Suppliers have a most extensive range of Products well worth looking at. Most Suppliers will supply individual Cosmetics and Some offer complete sets, some of which are very extensive and portable for the Embalmer/Cosmetologist who travels allot, which I would personally find useful, to know that everything I need is contained in one case or holder, instead of checking each time to be sure I haven’t forgotten anything, only to be in the mortuary at 2-30am, and realize the one cosmetic I need is back in the Funeral Home.
Most Suppliers give the choice of a few cosmetic types, some are liquid, Cream or powder and they all have there advantages and disadvantages. Personally I have used an assortment of all the cosmetics available and find each one has its applications which suit different situations. The fault of some cosmetics is there easy removal by touching or kissing which means they will require a touch up the following Day after visitation or before the Funeral, which is not a major problem unless You are after covering a major discoloration or blemish which over a short period becomes visible, which may cause some distress or discomfort to the Family or Relatives. Even if this is the case, it is not a major job to ask the Family to avoid the area causing concern.
I have used and own a few different types of Mortuary supplied cosmetics, and I must say the ones that come in Kits are very useful, especially if You are going to be operating in a few different Mortuaries or Funeral Homes, because the kits are very complete, and it’s easy to spot if one cosmetic jar or bottle is missing as they have individual slots, if they are supplied in a case or holder. Also the charts that are supplied are very useful, the dilution’s or mixtures given on these charts may not be exactly what the Embalmer wants to achieve, but they give good directions on how to achieve good results and to make them perfect may only require minor adjustments, as everyone’s idea of a perfect complexion varies.
Mortuary creams come in Semi-Opaque, which when applied lightly, can be seen through to the natural skin tones, and when applied more dense, will cover over areas which are marked or soiled, for this reason these cream’s are very useful, also they are inclined to be a little bright when applied first, but when the finishing powder is applied the colours are allot more natural looking. Also if the colour required is not exactly what is supplied it is very easy to mix two colours together in order to achieve the desired effect. Semi-opaque Creams usually help to prevent dehydration when applied because the air is less likely to get in contact with the skin, but take a good bit of practice to get used to there application, one there disadvantages is they usually need a clean shaven face, facial hairs can be a bit troublesome when these creams are used, and they need to be warmed in the hand for easy application.
Transparent Liquid Cosmetics these oil and water cosmetics are meant to be applied by a brush, which is not a problem, and these liquids are usually supplied in glass or plastic jars, and kits are also available or they can be bought individually. They are quite easy to get used to, and are usually quick to apply, they are not removable by moderate kissing or touching and facial hair is not a big problem. I have heard it said that these cosmetics have a dehydrating effect which I have not noticed personally. In actual fact I have used these cosmetics on more than one occasion, and found them extremely useful and very effective in restoring a very natural appearance.
Sponge Applied Cosmetics are also supplied mortuary suppliers and are also quite easy to use, they take a little getting used to, but every cosmetic needs some practice, these are very easy to apply.
Airbrush Cosmetics are also available from mortuary suppliers, these are applied by spraying tiny dots on to the skin through a spray head powered by a small compressor. This gives very even distribution and natural effect on the skin. This system requires allot of practice but is most effective and natural looking.
Arterial Color additives are supplied by embalming fluid manufacturers, these are added to Your arterial injection, and can be very effective. The best way to use these, in My experience, is to add them to Your fluid, and set Your machine to mix, while You prepare the Deceased, the longer they are left to mix the better, and the more even there distribution will be. They have a very even effect and give a very good colour.
I should point out that this is only some of the Cosmetics available, a full list is available from any Mortuary Suppliers.
Commercially available Cosmetics;
I suppose like every trade We should not stop to look at what’s available around Us. The Cosmetic shop is always worth looking at, for Me anyway, I love to browse through the cosmetic stands, the amount of products available is endless. I find the lipsticks are especially interesting because You can usually find one that is very natural and will always look very well, but will not give that painted effect. Foundations are so varied One could easily get very confused, but again I find if I can get one that is not to obvious, it can be very effective if applied lightly. Eye shadows, Mascara, highlighting powders, etc, are all available from Your local Shops, and should not be overlooked, because there is a unending supply available, some of which may improve Your Embalming Results. Remember some of these cosmetics presume heat from the skin is going to help the cosmetic to blend in, it is worth remembering the Deceased will not give this heat.
Preparation;
The biggest argument against cosmetics has always been there over use. What ever cosmetics You use, this is always a danger and must be kept in mind. I also find that the lights in My embalming Theatre are so much brighter than the Funeral Home, lighting which is soft, so that a cosmetic application that seems over bright in the embalming room, may be too light or just right in the Funeral Home. I have adjusted to this in My application of cosmetics, but if the Funeral Service is to be held in a Private Residence We need to visit the Residence or better still apply the cosmetics on arrival at the Residence. Some Funeral Directors on having a removal or service in a Private Residence, travel to the Residence and prepare the Room for visitation, erecting lighting as part of that preparation along with any religious ornaments required for the service, I asked a few of them what kind of lighting which I was most interested in, and I was told Soft, with lights facing the ceiling, and the House lights turned off. I don’t think this was such a bad idea and maybe one worth thinking about. This creates the effect of having reflected light from the ceiling lighting the Deceased's face, this light is soft and usually white as most ceilings are white.
Application;
Cosmetics have so many uses it would be impossible to list them all, but in the average case a little application can mean the difference between a very good job and an excellent job. Given a small bit of pre-planning and experimentation, so much can be achieved with cosmetics, and in the major restoration they are not only invaluable, but can sometimes be the difference between viewing and a closed coffin.
I would encourage everyone involved in Embalming to take the time to learn about cosmetics, after all, if You don’t like the results You achieve, at least You know what cosmetics can do, and have a better knowledge of cosmetic application if called upon by future clients for advice on cosmetic application. Most cosmetics can be removed by a solvent or with soap and water, so if You are not happy with the results achieved at first, You can start again and hopefully the second or third application will be successful.
Cosmetics can be applied either before or after dressing or casketing , the most important thing is to watch out not to soil clothing, either when dressing or when applying cosmetics after dressing, and also to cover cosmetics with plastic or cloth covers, if placing the side sheets into the coffin for removal to the Funeral Home or Residence. Cosmetics are best applied on a clean dry surface and some advise the use of a cleansing cream before cosmetic application, this is an excellent idea, and make sure the cream is evenly distributed and lightly applied, the foundation may then be applied in a even and light application (it’s easy to add more later if needed, harder to subtract heavily placed cosmetics).
When the basic colour is achieved with the foundation a blending colour is the added, which should lighten the foundation to an acceptable and more natural appearance. Rouge is then applied evenly and very carefully on each check, eye shadow, lipstick, and mascara (if desired) are usually the finishing touches.
A finishing powder may then be applied and allowed to dry before careful removal.
This is not the only method but offered as a suggestion for anyone who wants to try cosmetic application for the first time. If this method is followed a first time cosmetic artist will gain a basic knowledge of cosmetic application and hopefully be encouraged to do more intensive investigation.
I hope I have given anyone who has never experimented with cosmetics a little insight into there application, and a hunger to investigate further.
Edward J.Grey, MBIE, MIAFD, Ma,Ra, MPES, Dip,Hd, Dip,Cm, MEFSA,
"Respect for Tradition, Regard for Change"